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Use of Collagen in Cosmetic Products.

Collagen (CLG) belongs to the family of fibrillar proteins and is composed of left-handed α polypeptide chains, which, twisting around themselves and their axis, form a right-handed superhelix. In the chemical structure, it contains mainly proline, hydroxyproline, glycine, and hydroxylysine. It occurs naturally in the dermis in the form of fibers that provide the skin with proper density and elasticity. Throughout the market, there are many cosmetic and cosmeceutical products containing CLG. They are in the form of fillers administered as injections, belonging to the group of the oldest tissue fillers; products administered orally and for topical use, such as creams, gels, serums, or cosmetic masks. Analyzed studies have shown that the use of products with collagen or its peptides improves the general condition of the skin and delays the aging process by reducing the depth of wrinkles, improving hydration (in the case of oral preparations), reducing transepithelial water loss (TEWL), as well as improving skin density and elasticity. In addition, oral application of bioactive CLG peptides has shown a positive effect on the nails, reducing the frequency of their breakage. The cosmetics industry is one of the best-developing industries in recent years. The cosmetics market offers countless products in various formulas so that everyone can find a cosmetic that suits their needs. The molecular weight of collagen is approximately 300,000 Da, the diameter is approximately 14–15 Å (Angstrom), and the length is 2800 Å. Collagen has high water-binding capacity, which makes it a good ingredient for texturizing, thickening, and creating gels. It has properties related to its behavior on the surface: emulsion formation, foam formation, stabilization, adhesion, cohesion, film-forming properties, and a protective function for the colloid. Additionally, CLG is a good surfactant. It can penetrate lipid-free structures. It has good biocompatibility and low immunogenicity. The properties of CLG depend on the age of the body. With age, solubility tends to decrease due to the greater crosslinking of collagen in older animals.
Aging processes lead to crosslinking of the protein structure and affect its mechanical properties. Mature CLG has a highly crosslinked structure and is usually insoluble in water. Water-soluble and acid-soluble CLG can only be obtained from young tissues. Age-related differences in CLG solubility have been examined based on susceptibility to pepsin digestion. Research has established that the solubility of collagen in acetic acid decreases rapidly as it matures. Like other proteins, it is denatured under the influence of certain factors. The temperature at which thermal denaturation of CLG occurs (the so-called melting point) depends on the water content, pH of the environment, and the degree of crosslinking. The denatured mass of tangled chains cools and absorbs all the water from the surroundings. This denatured collagen is called gelatin. Gelatin itself is a mixture of water-soluble proteins, mainly derived from collagen. It usually binds more water than CLG because it is partially degraded and more active groups are exposed to interactions with water through hydrogen bonds. Due to their structural role and compatibility with the body, collagen and gelatin are commonly used biomaterials in medicine, the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries, with gelatin being a much cheaper material. Collagen is a highly crosslinked material, usually insoluble in water and oils, so in the case of cosmetic preparations, it is usually hydrolyzed into smaller peptides.
Collagen proteins perform various functions in the body. The most important of them are maintaining structural integrity, and being responsible for the processes of cell adhesion, differentiation, growth, survival, and regeneration. The basic task of collagen is to connect cells, which is why it is a building block of most organs, especially skin, bones, teeth, cartilage, blood vessels, and the cornea of the eye. At the same time, it protects internal organs such as the kidneys, stomach, and liver, creating a flexible scaffolding around them. It also takes part in regenerative processes and ensures proper hydration of the skin thanks to its ability to bind water. In the immune system, it prevents the entry of pathogenic microorganisms and toxic substances. It ensures the continuity of cell renewal processes in the skin and maintains the appropriate level of hydration, which affects its elasticity, appearance, and condition. It accelerates wound healing, creates scars, and promotes the reconstruction of connective tissue. Collagen increases the absorption of minerals and increases bone density. It stimulates the activity of cartilage cells and supports protective processes within cartilage tissue, providing cartilage with the appropriate shape and resistance to stretching.